Island Energy

Your Stories – Tom’s Maxim Pellet Boiler

September 10, 2008 · 49 Comments

There is of course no ONE way and no ONE solution to using less energy.

I invite you to send me your stories about what you are doing.

Here is Tom’s. What is new here is Tom’s choice of a Pellet Boiler. Something like this will be used as an experiment in the French School on PEI. So keeping up with Tom is a good foretaste of how our schools might be heated. It’s also not a system seen here on PEI yet for residential and it will be great to follow Tom and Gail over the winter and see how it works.

Rob Paterson and I have a healthy back and forth.  He, the veritable “Doctor of Doom and Gloom” and I, the “Flower-Sniffing Eternal Optimist”.  We both like to think the truth lies in the middle I imagine…  Perhaps that’s just optimism too.

And so on.

But of all of Rob’s great advice and commentary – yeah, most goes in one ear and out the other -  there was one thing he discussed that rang with clear resonance, clear enough to cut through the ever-present thick fog of this fairyland optimist:   that was his admonishments about “peak oil”.

Woe…  Peak Oil.

The owners of a typical two-story, 2000 square foot house, situated in picturesque Eastern Connecticut, my wife Gail and I have had the increasingly unhappy choir of filling the 250 gallon fuel oil tank that feeds the oil-fired boiler in the basement.    Not ten years ago, we were paying 55 cents per gallon for heating oil.   My last fill-up at US $4.35 per gallon.

Rob was right; oil was getting in short supply…  Soon, we’d see this so called peak oil thing.  Indeed, it was time to revisit home-heating.

To make a long story short (blogs by definition must be short stories)  I ultimately purchased the Maxim 250 pellet boiler. I decided on this system for the following reasons:

-          Fully enclosed and insulated, it can be set-up outside, with just the piping run indoors.  Essentially two pipes, both are freeze resistant and encased in insulating material;  the pipes consequently need not be buried below the frost line.

-          Pellet-fired stoves and boilers vary in efficiency.  The Maxim 250 is rated as 95% efficient.

-          The Maxim 250  is capable of heating upwards of 3000 square feet of living space, including the accommodation for multiple buildings.  Maxim also makes a smaller unit, the Maxim 175.

-          Any pellet will fire in the Maxim…  Corn, wood of any kind, even cherry-pits.  It makes no difference since the temperature is computer controlled.

-          As I mentioned above, water is maintained at a constant temperature.  This, by an onboard computer that automatically feeds the pellets into the fire box at the proper rate.   Incidentally, some pellets burn hotter and slower than others – hence the need for temperature control.

-          I’m configuring my new pellet boiler to work with a heat exchanger that will pre-heat the water that’s fed into my oil-fired  boiler.  When properly set, the pellet boiler will keep the water hot enough to preclude the oil-burner from firing.  If the pellet boiler ever fails – no problem; the oil burner will start as it would normally.  The device can configured for all the usual heating applications such as, forced hot air, radiant heat, and so on.

That’s it for the device…  Now the metrics.

-          We estimated that it would cost $4000 to heat the house with oil this winter.  That assumes oil prices remained in the $4.00 per gallon range, we experience a normal winter, and we heat the house to temperatures as is our custom.

-          Based on the current price of pellets, and in consultation with the pellet stove dealer who sold me the device, we estimated that we would use approximately $750.00 pellets, not only for the winter, but for an entire year.  Here’s a link to a calculator that helps calculate savings based on existing heating and hot water costs.

-          The boiler costs $8500 delivered,  and with installation, we expect to have invested $9,200.  Here’s a link to a quick video that describes the system set-up.

Here are a few other options I considered.

-          Pellet stoves…  This was my first idea.  The prices range from $2500-$5000 depending on capacity and so forth.  In the end, you end up with a convection hot air system that dries out the air, creates drafts (as it pulls in fresh air from outside).  And a fire source inside the house.

-          Word burning boilers.  Vastly inefficient and just as costly, these systems pollute the neighborhood and require stacks of cord-wood in your yard.  Moreover, keeping these systems stoked takes time and effort.  On the bright side – they’re the cheapest option ($850-$3500).  Here’s a link to a number of outdoor wood boilers.  A little less money to buy, perhaps more expensive to fuel.

-          Electric Heat…  Operating costs seem lock-stepped with oil…  What would be the point.

-          Geothermal…  I read something on Rob’s Blog about up and coming Geothermal.  It looks rather promising, but requires lots of deep trenches to fit huge arrays of cooling pipes.  Nah.  Too much of a science project for me.

Seth Godin wrote in his blog the other day, that sometimes fixing one thing makes all the difference.  He went on to opine how one company could make some changes to its customer service, how another needs to work on its waiting times and lastly, Joe Biden needs to work on his brevity…

I thought if I could fix one thing at home, it would not be purchasing a hybrid car, getting a solar array or installing a wind farm – it would be this pellet furnace.  Just knowing that I wont be sending $4000 dollars to the middle east this year is indeed a comfort.

PS Neither Tom or I have any interest in Maxim – this blog will be frank about products and services but is not in any way connected to any other than as fellow users

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49 responses so far ↓

  • Tom Desrosier // September 10, 2008 at 3:18 pm | Reply

    I neglected to include the link to the other wood boiler options: http://www.schulzheat.com/centralboiler.html

    also, beware of outdoor systems that feature water cooled doors. You should ask yourself: what would a well insulated system need a water cooled door for?

    Tom
    http://www.dare2believe.com

  • mattbg // September 11, 2008 at 9:01 am | Reply

    Those are some very impressive and worthwhile savings!

    Do you have any idea what you expect to happen to the price of pellets as more people get onboard with this type of heating?

  • mattbg // September 18, 2008 at 1:23 pm | Reply

    I guess this is not an interactive forum :)

  • robpatrob // September 18, 2008 at 2:00 pm | Reply

    Matt – I have been busy on my other stuff – At the moment there might be a bump in proce as capacity has not grown yet

    Hoping on PEI that we can do for pellets what we did with wind – have the govt use them to heat govt building such as schools – create the demand and set up a local system here

    So back to you Matt what do you think – after why should I now any more than you?

  • mattbg // September 19, 2008 at 8:24 am | Reply

    Well, I would assume that when supplying things locally, the market is more susceptible to price shocks. Also, one of our ongoing problems is that we don’t seem to take reflexivity into account and seem to assume that a situation will stay the same when we add our own self to that situation.

    The idea that, for example, we should move toward electric cars because electricity is so relatively cheap. Well, will it be so cheap when 20,000,000 people are trying to power their cars with it?

    There’s a similar argument to be made here — can PEI affordably supply the heating needs of its population with wood pellets in a sustainable way? Or will it get a tenth of the way in and start getting price shocks?

    Environmentally-speaking, it’s not as simple as cutting down trees in one area and then replanting them in another because erosion and other ecological destruction occurs while the ground cover is gone from the cut site. You can use waste products from operations that would go forth anyway, but when your demand for waste exceeds the supply of waste, what happens then? Similar to the gasoline/diesel problem, where a refinery produces related amounts of each in the fractionation process.

    Also, there is no such thing as a waste product. What isn’t returned to the ecosystem doesn’t magically reappear somewhere else. Organic farmers know this and return compost and manure to the soil, while the others use artificial fertilizers to restore the nutrients that the plants most apparently need.

    As for why you should know any more about wood pellet prices than me… well, you have ideas about oil prices, don’t you? And I don’t know of anyone seriously looking at wood pellets because we don’t have the degree of heating oil dependency that you have on PEI.

    Maybe I’m going off-topic… this blog might just be about kickstarting plausible alternatives to oil…. in which case, it’s a great summary of the options. I knew about wood pellet stoves, but I didn’t know you could get boilers that run from them, too.

  • robpatrob // September 19, 2008 at 10:17 am | Reply

    I have bumped into a great resource on how wood may be used locally – Roy MacMullin – I will be posting some of his material asap – Roy is looking at the issue you bring up – can we use wood as a sustainable alternative? His answer is yes

    More later..

  • mattbg // September 19, 2008 at 11:18 am | Reply

    Thanks, Rob. Looking forward to it.

  • Tom Desrosier // September 19, 2008 at 10:24 pm | Reply

    Sorry for the delay – pellet prices will be slowly dropping I surmise – the US has 800,000 households using pellets right now; as more households start using pellets demand will rise, but so wont supplies.

    $700 worth of pellets per year heats the house! At that price – leave the windows open!

  • mattbg // September 20, 2008 at 9:23 am | Reply

    Well, I wouldn’t go as far as that — $700/year is what I paid to heat my house and water with natural gas last year, and I in no way feel inclined to leave the windows open :) That was a 1960s attitude that I hope we can bury!

    Can these stoves burn wood, too, or be converted to woodburning stoves? My instinct says not, because I’ve heard things here and there about the pellet idea… but maybe it has advanced?

  • cm // September 20, 2008 at 10:05 am | Reply

    HELLO, I am wondering if you already had your maxim 250 installed. I am looking to get the same one, I am being told they do not ship until october, and I am getting estimates of 2 to 10 weeks for delivery. What was your experience with delivery time and also with installation? Thank you! CM

  • Tom Desrosier // September 21, 2008 at 8:25 pm | Reply

    Matt – Pellets only, however, there are stoves that will burn both; they’re just mediocre pellet burners though.

    CM, I ordered my boiler July 2-3 and expect delivery Mid-October. I’m hearing that people who are trying to order now are out of luck.

    Tom
    http://www.dare2believe.com

  • Kedz // October 7, 2008 at 11:26 am | Reply

    I was wondering about how the Maxim water lines enter the house? Though the foundation?

  • tom desrosier // October 13, 2008 at 7:52 am | Reply

    The piping typically goes through the foundation. Do you have any “knock outs”?

    Another option is through a basement window or through the side of the house and down.

    The piping consists of two 3/4 k-pex lines encased in a 4″ poly-insulating flexible pipe. The outer pipe is terminated at the side of the house and only the two 3/4 lines penetrate.

    Hope this helps –

    My boiler’s delivery has been delayed until the end of Oct – the company is being flogged to death apparently.

    Tom

  • tom desrosier // October 18, 2008 at 3:38 pm | Reply

    Update…
    I got the so-called flexible pipe and buried it 16″ deep. It does not require burying below the frost line.

    Its not very flexible – you’ll get quite a work out. The upside, you certainly dont want to pay a plumber $60 an hour to dig a hole and bury a pipe.

    Tom

  • tom desrosier // November 5, 2008 at 10:40 pm | Reply

    Update…
    The plumber installed the heat exchanger and recirc pumps; all is now in readiness for the boiler. I’m hopeful that it will arrive 7 or 8 Nov.

    Tom

  • Kevin // November 7, 2008 at 4:23 pm | Reply

    Good luck with the boiler. Right now I hear pellets are scarce (purchased mine for the pellet stove in May — tax check from Bush). I would suggest that you set aside a few more greenbacks for more pellets. I found that the calculators are “optimistic” at best. I live in Central CT in a slightly larger house and we just purchased 5 tons of pellets based on our 3 year history with the pellet stove. We had in the past used between 1200 and 1500 gallons of oil. Using the Btu content of the pellets (~8000 Btu/lb) and subtracting out the 300 gallons of oil we still used last winter (weekends away, really cold nights, etc.) assuming we offset about 1000 gallons of oil:

    8,000 BTU/lb
    2,000 lb/ton
    16,000,000 Total Heat Content
    85% Efficiency of Stove
    13,600,000 Total Heat per Ton (Btu)

    1,000 gallons of Oil
    139,500 Btu/gallon of #2
    139,500,000 Total Heat of Oil
    65% Assumed Efficiency of Oil
    90,675,000 Total Heat Required

    6.67 tons Pellets Required

    Sanity Check:

    2,400 Sq. Feet
    25 Btu/Sq Feet (Peak)
    2,000 Total Full Load Hours
    120,000,000 Total Heat Required

    My experience has been that we have used between 4 and 5 tons of pellets depending on how late into the spring we need to take the edge off. Granted my old house (1939) is not well insulated, not every window has been updated and we are slowly decreasing the temperature of the house but the btus are the btus and I think the pellet stove salesman at least under sell the amount of pellets required.

    Please update next spring with your experience and pellet use.

    Thanks.

  • Darren // November 7, 2008 at 11:15 pm | Reply

    I have a Maxim 175. I had it installed the first week of October, and everything started off fine. I buried the Pex myself, borrowing a friend’s skid-loader. I am heating a total of approximately 3500 sq ft to 64F,and 1200 sq ft to 68-70F between 2 buildings, all radiant floor heat.

    I have noticed that the system is very erratic in it’s pellet consumption. Regardless of outside temp, one day it uses 40# of pellets, the next is 80-100#. I have poured over the owner’s manual, but it doesn’t offer any insight to system setup, beyond a very elementary level.

    Does anyone here have a good place to start for water temp settings or fan speed? Also, my unit has a “clean out” function noted on the electronic control pad, but I can’t figure out what it’s for or how to operate it.

    I have noticed that the unit does just as good heating my buildings with the water temp set at 155 as it does at 170. Is there a reason the manual suggests a minimum temp of 165?

    As for fuel supply, I have purchased 3 pallets of pellets (170 – 40# bags) from Menards at a cost of approx $720. I have used almost 35 bags in the last 3 weeks, so I’m pretty sure I’ll need more to get through winter. Still, it will be much cheaper than natural gas like last year.

    If anyone has some ideas on system setup or placs to buy pre-packaged fuel, please respond.

    Thanks!

  • tom desrosier // November 9, 2008 at 8:40 pm | Reply

    Darren, I’m not an expert, but I suspect two problems:
    - You’re trying to heat too much space.
    - You need a professional to adjust the computer controls.

    Turning down the water temperature just means the water will circulate longer through the pipes before the room reaches temperature.

    Good luck!
    Tom
    tom@dare2believe.com

  • Scott // November 16, 2008 at 1:52 pm | Reply

    Darren , I also have the maxim 175. I live in vermont. i am usin two bags a day to heat 1450 of house and 990 of garage. I also want to know about the clean out mode. Have called my dealer still waiting for my answer been a week. I would like to clean out tubes. As you said the manual is not very helpful.

    Thanks Sctt

  • Vera-Lynn // November 19, 2008 at 1:53 pm | Reply

    Can anyone tell me how much it costs to install the boilers?

  • Scott // November 21, 2008 at 8:54 pm | Reply

    mine was around 2000.00 This inclued modine in the garage. 3 circulaters interior pipe and 2 guys for roughly 8 hours

  • stream // November 21, 2008 at 9:03 pm | Reply

    we have one now and it did real good on the pellets but I am looking at a lot of partly burned corn now, and I don’t want to be ccleaning it out every day – we have a thing that is above and beyond the manual but still not very helpful, tells you how to cchange a lot of settings but not WHY so if we have any experts stumble in, give us a clue

  • Vera-Lynn // November 25, 2008 at 2:22 pm | Reply

    Thanks Scott…I am doing some research on pellet boilers and looking for as much information as I can get however I am in Newfoundland Canada and was hoping for something closer to home.

  • Mike C // December 4, 2008 at 8:12 pm | Reply

    I also have a maxim 175 and have found it to be a little of a let down . It heats great but is producing quite a bit of smoke at idle and at initial change of levels , saying going from idle to medium it will belch a huge plume of smoke for 5 to 10 seconds and then smoke a bit untill the fire really gets going then all is well . I have also found the fire box gets dirty as hell FAST and has some tar like substance under the fire pot anyone have any insite ?

  • Mike C // December 9, 2008 at 11:58 am | Reply

    UPDATE, I have found that your fan setting has to be atleast equal with the pellet feed rate in any given setting IE ( idle , med , high ) this has taken care of the tar issue and to my surprise I had the feed rates too high ( idle was 4 green , med was one red , high was 3 red . ) now my setting for heating a 2 zone 2300 sqft split level house with a huge basement home theater room (almost the entire basement ) is 2 green for idle 4 orange for med and 1 red for highfor feed rates and the fan rates are 2 green for idle 1 red for med and 1 red for high and so far the only time it has gone into the high setting is when both zones were calling for heat and the wife was in the shower other than that it stays in the idle or med setting . I have my water temp set at 180 and it settles at 181 and when its circulating for heat it drops to 177 and then fires to med for 2 to 4 minutes and then back to idle the lowest I have seen the temp drop was when both zones were circulating and the shower was in use and then it only dropped to 175 . my set up is running through the exsisting presurized boiler ( now depresurized) with one circulator on the maxim I did however slightly close the ball valve on the return line to the maxim to achieve 5psi of line pressure to aid in heating the house and relieving some strain on the inside circulators . the outside circulator has a bit of strain from the slightly closed valve but I have a spare and they are not that expensive . as for install prices, for what actually had to be done for my system was around 300.00 a buddy and myself did everything except coreing the hole in the foundation and that was an additional 300 so a total of 600 and I was done 2000.00 is outragous you can do most of it yourself DO NOT BE AFFRAID . it a good learning experience any questions can be asked by Emailing me at gli2.0@comcast.net

  • tom desrosier // December 15, 2008 at 10:09 pm | Reply

    Wow – good stuff here! I’m now 6 weeks into my Maxim 250 experience. the boiler cost me about 9K with the parts needed to exchange heat with my oil boiler. Labor was $400. I dug the hole myself, poured the slab and roughed out the electic myself.

    I went through 1 ton of pallets in November and expect to do likewise in December. I paid $280 for a ton of pellets at Tractor Supply.

    My biggest problem is the creosote. (tar substance). I’m seeing allot of it; its actually dripping from the chimney and seems to be caused by the the stack being too cool.

    Here’s what the reas situation is: no one knows how to install them and no one knows how to adjust them. This is actually the only place I found with info – particularly Mike C. above.

    Mike – good info on settings!!!
    Tom
    http://www.dare2believe.com

  • Scott // December 20, 2008 at 2:53 pm | Reply

    I have a maxim 175 unit. Today i expericend smoke coming from hopper. The unit was on high. I clean around burner. and cleaned the exhuast tubes. This is the first time this has happened. After i cleaned it there is no more smoke. I cleaned the exhaust after the first ton i burned. Has any one else had this happen. Thanks Scott

  • Mike C // December 20, 2008 at 11:53 pm | Reply

    Scott,
    sounds to me by what you saying is that you had slightly clogged exhaust outlet issue . if your maxim isnt burning clean enough its going to need cleaning quite often and make no mistake if its dirty and the transfer tubes are not clear you will have reversion of exhaust gas through the feed system ( which isnt good at all ) try adjusting your settings to the lowest feed rate you can get away with and still have the temp and volume of heat you need with the fan speeds at the same setting then bring your fan speed up one notch and report back I’ll bet you will be happier for it . and remember more is not always better and air when it comes to solid fuel combustion = heat
    Tom,
    first off what pipes are you using ? the ones that came with the unit or did you add more ? if your using the class A vent that came with the unit then all the heat is being contained within the pipe and keeping stack temp high which should not pose any problems if this is the situation then I would try to lower your feed rate and or increase your fan speed . creosote is a product of substandard material being burned IE pine , soft wood, crappy pellets . OR inefficent burning of the materials being burnt ( not enough air ) or too much material being fed to the given air available . today the high was 21 degrees . my downstairs thermostat was set on 68 and the up stairs on 66 temp of house stayed constant and comfortable my settings are even lower than before 2 green for idle 4 orange for med and 1 red for high I lowered the fan speed for med just one and the boiler never went below 177 ( set to 180 ) and as far as I could see it never went into high and only burned about 1.5 bag the ash content went down a bit and the creosote is almost gone from the burn chamber all but just a light film that has been crusting up and flaking off
    Hope this helps … I am by no means an expert on the maxim 175 ( as I am still learning as well ) but you could say I am a bit anal when it comes to machines and the like . I have to be in my business. its not easy getting a 1400 cc 4 cylinder engine to spin at 13 to 14000 rpm and make 400 to 550 hp and stay togather while doing it factory certified Suzuki , Kawasaki, Ducati tech and a damed good one at that :)

  • Scott // December 22, 2008 at 8:26 pm | Reply

    Yes i can see where i have a creosote build up. On my settings i have no red color. I have the green and orange but no red. Can you tell me how manyabove the green you are at. I put in 3 bags tonight. So i burned 3 bags in a day

  • Jeff // December 28, 2008 at 12:17 am | Reply

    Hello
    I just started up my 250 today. And very impressed with the unit, But I think I have to play with the settings a little. I agree with you Mike C. you have a lot of good points. It is really warn up here in Ontario Canada this weekend(+10′C) and it is not taking much to heat my house. But I am really impressed with the lack of smoke I am seeing coming from the unit, when under fire. But it does smoke a little on Idle which surprised me and when It changes from say idle to med. but I think i can get that worked out. But I first start, it smoked for 5 minutes and then you could not even til it was running when it was trying to get up to temp. for the first time.
    I really like the unit, that modulating feed rate and air is great, the hopper is a nice size and that propane start is awesome. I hope it works as good as I think it is going too.
    Happy New Year everyone.
    Jeff

  • Scott // January 16, 2009 at 7:11 am | Reply

    Just wondering how everybodys units are working. Did you find any new things to tweak the unit to make it preform better. I am burning 3 bags a day.

  • Jeff // January 18, 2009 at 11:30 pm | Reply

    Hello
    I am burning 100 pounds of pellets a day and it works great. Ash once a week and clean the flues every other week.
    I have mine set all feed rates at 4 green and the air settings one above that.
    Seems to burn very clean and the ash is like dust. So I think I have it working good.
    Jeff

  • Jeff // January 29, 2009 at 1:01 am | Reply

    Changed my thinking.
    Maybe a higher fan rate makes heat out the chimney.S o I have adjusted it and went with 2 setting below the feed rate with the air fan setting. seems to smoke more but the burner temp is high so that should be good I think so . we will try it for a few days and see.

  • Ken // January 30, 2009 at 6:01 pm | Reply

    Hello!

    I’ve installed the M250 last week. I burned 1654 gals of propane last year for $3969.oo, so it was time to make a change.

    I’m really confused about the auger/fan settings. I started a spreadsheet to track how much I’m burning compared to the Heating Degree Days, and so far nothing seems to be better than the factory settings. I’m burning 5 bags (200 lbs) of pellets a day, so I’ll go through a ton in 10 days. Even with that it’s going to save about 50% since I got the pellet for 150/ton. Anyway I’m getting a wierd black “cake” in my burn pot, and black build-up all over the inside of the burn chamber, and almost constant smoke. Any thoughts on what I might try to improve my burn efficiency?

  • Scott // February 1, 2009 at 8:53 am | Reply

    Jeff how is it going? I have my fan at two above feed rate. No smoke burning 3 bags a day when temps in the teens. was wondering how you are doing with the latest settings. I have to clean my flue every half ton or get smoke coming up in the pellet hopper.

    Scott

  • Jeff // February 8, 2009 at 2:07 am | Reply

    found somewhere in the middle is the best.
    with the feed rate higher then the air speed I got a lot more ash(Whole pellets) and also a lot more smoke. So know I have adjusted again and went with:High 4 green feed and 2 yellow air(more air on the high)
    Medium 4 green feed and 4 green air
    Low 2 green and 2 green
    Like how it is burning.
    I feel if you have black fire box(sticky like)
    you have to much feed and not enough air
    same thing if you have a lot of smoke

    It is something you really have to play with
    have fun

  • Tony // March 5, 2009 at 12:05 pm | Reply

    I have a Maxim 250. After about two months of getting to know it I had to be away and shut it down. I had antifreezd it to make this possible. I shut off powere to the unit so that the circulation pump would not run the whole time. While I was away the unit back burned up the augers and into the storage bin doing extensive damage. Has any one else experianced this problem perhaps during an extended power outage?

  • scott // March 14, 2009 at 4:29 pm | Reply

    Tony sorry to hear about your problem. Iread on another forum i burn corn i think about the burn back. he posted pics. of it. CB was going to cover it.

  • scott // March 14, 2009 at 4:30 pm | Reply

    Has anyone burned pellets year around to heat there water. was wondering what your consumption was? Thanks Scott

  • Tony // March 20, 2009 at 7:13 pm | Reply

    The 90 gallon water capacity of the Maxim does not make it very efficient for heating domestic hot water in the summer. What would be great would be a small pellet fired domestic hot water maker similar to the small wood fired ones that are available.

  • Tony // March 20, 2009 at 7:35 pm | Reply

    About the back burn problem. The Maxim 250 has two feed augers. The upper one brings the pellets off the bottom of the hopper and ‘drops them onto the lower auger which pushes them directly into the burn pot. This drop zone between the augers was designed to creat a break in the contact between pellets leading from the burn pot back to the hopper. This drop zone can become full of pellets if there is any resistance to the lower augers delivery of the pellets to the burner. Once this drop zone is full of pellets there is a direct line of fuel all the way to the hopper.
    CM built in a safty feature whic only works when there is power to the Maxim. There is a heat sensor in the lower auger area which will acyivate if there is excessive heat in that area. This triggers the lower auger to advance pellets without the upper auger running which clears the area of the back burning pellets and af any excess pellets in the drop zone. This is the same thing that occures when the clean out function is employed.
    All of that is fine if there is power to the unit. During a power outage it does not take very many hours for the fire to make it all the way to the hopper and to melt all the controles mounted in that area. If I had known to keep the drop zone clear which can be inspected through the glass in the drop zone the back burn would have been limited to the lower auger and would have done far less damage.
    The Owners Manuel hopefully will be urgently updated with warnings about how to avoid this ‘problem’. Other boilers have longer drop zones, or a rotery paddle wheel instead of the upper auger. The paddle wheel avoids the connected spirel of fuel that an auger creates.

  • xcrider400ex // April 17, 2009 at 1:22 pm | Reply

    I run an M175 in northern Minnesota. We had a very cold winter (Between -20 and -10 at night seemed normal). I burned about from 1.5 to 4 bags a day heating my well insulated 3600 sq ft house/basement and a 2 stall attached garage. I used a total of 8 tons from October 15 to April 15, oh, and about 20 bushels of corn just to try it.

    From what I’ve read, if you have wet sticky black creosote, it means that your unit is not burning hot enough. It either means that it is warm outside, your heat load is small, or your air settings need to be increased some. Creosote can also be caused by running your water temperature too low. The walls of your firebox are cold, and the fire is hot, so that can cause creosote. The less difference between the heat of the fire and the temp of your firebox walls will lessen the creosote too. Run your water temp at 175 instead of 150 and see if that will decrease the creosote. But I say again, if it is warm out so your heat load is low, you will most likely see creosote no matter what because your unit is idling for long periods of time.

    As far as the hard flakey crust in the burn pot, it is TOTALLY dependant on your quality of pellets. I ran some pellets for a while that caused large solid crust pucks, and then switched to another brand that would leave only a fine light gray dust. I would not be too concerned with the crust pucks though, just pull them out every 3 or 4 days and you will be fine. But I say again, the crust pucks have 90% to do with your fuel quality, and probably 10% to do with your feed/fan settings.

    Corn, even when “completely” burned would leave a lot a ash clinkers, so I had to scoop out ash clinkers every 3 or 4 days. Pellets I probably only would have had to scoop out ash every month (I did it every 2 weeks anyway).

    Don’t ever unplug your unit unless you scoop all of the burning embers from your burn pot. There are safety features built in to prevent back burn. Or I guess you could run the unit in “clean out” mode too before unplugging it to be sure that there are no pellets in the auger to back burn into. But BEWARE that if you unplug your circulating pumps that you run the risk of the pipes freezing too unless you have treated the system with antifreeze (expensive!).

    I loved my Maxim 175 this heating season. I had a total of 2 small metal garbage cans of ash for the entire winter.

    Pellets cost me an average of $230/ton for the season including the fuel for my 30 mile round trips to pick them up. My pellets were in individual bags. My 20 bushels of corn was $3.00/bushel at the local elevator at 15% moisture and it burned fine.

  • scott // October 11, 2009 at 4:28 pm | Reply

    oct 11 2009, fired up the 175 today. so far so good

  • Tony // October 13, 2009 at 8:41 am | Reply

    Hey all,
    I have a 250. I had the back-burn problem last winter (March 2009) that ruined my boiler. Maxim and my dealer delivered a replacement boiler and picked up the old one. I had to do all the disconecting and reconnecting. I am looking forward to the coming season and appreciate this blog to keep in touch with other owner-operators. Maxim deffinately needs to upgrade its manuel in the area of ‘back-burn causes and prevention’. The electronic over-heat sensor near the lower auger can take care of a back-burn while the unit is powered. The danger is when the unit is deprived suddenly of power as in a power outage. IF POWER IS NOT EXPECTED TO RESUME WITHIN A SHORT TIME, ALL BURNING FUEL SHOULD BE RAKED AWAY FROM THE BURN AREA AND THE ENTRANCE TO THE LOWER AUGER. It takes only a few hours for the fire to smolder its way up the lower auger over heating that area. In my case the drop zone between the upper and lower augers had become full due to some sort of resistance in the burn pot, so the back-burn continued all the the way to the hopper. All should know the function of the clean out mode. Part of weekly inspection should be to inspect the drop zone through the glass window. You will always see the pellets held by the upper auger poised to fall through the drop tube to the lower auger. Be familiar with this and look for a pile of pellets filling up the tube. If the drop tube is full of pellets, run the clean out mode for a short tome to clear the extra pellets. The clean out mode runs the lower auger with out running the upper one. Always run the clean out mode before shutting off power to the boiler for more than a short time. Sorry so wordy but an important topic. I enjoy all of the posts about power settings etc… Tony

  • Paul // November 8, 2009 at 11:49 am | Reply

    Hello from Ontario, Canada,

    I have a M175 Maxim and I’ve had it for a year now. I am heating 3000 square feet to about 72F during the day and 68F at night. I am heating a large oil fired hot water tank and my heat is forced air hot water which is taken from the hot water tank via a circulating pump. I too had to learn the hard way, how to best set-up and maintain this unit. The settings depend on the quaility of the fuel used; if it contains too much moisture as is the case with new corn or poor quaility wood pellets, more air will be required to keep the fire from going out and/or to burn more efficiently. The factory settings is a good starting point, the air settings should always match the feed settings if the fuel is dry. If the fuel is a little wet, then the air settings should move one or two above the feed settings. My water temp is set at 170; I have tried lower temp settings, but it seems to burn cleaner at higher temp settings. If the temp setting is much higher it just burns more fuel. I have burned both corn and wood pellets, but last year corn was cheaper than wood pellets so I burned mostly corn. Now corn is a bit messy and the moisture content seems to vary; my solution is to mix the two (80% corn 20% wood pellets).

    Cleaning – Keeping this unit clean is very important, most of the problems associated with high fuel consumption is directly related to a dirty unit. Here’s my cleaning routine:

    Daily- (5 mins) scoop ashes from the ashe bin. Using the stir rod, scrape the burn pot to loosen any clinkers (mostly from corn). note, don’t put the fire out; wait until the unit changes to Med when your doing this is better.

    Weekly- (30 mins) The tubes should be cleaned out with the small round brush once a week, it takes only 10 mins to clean them out if its done weekly. The clean out mode should be run and inspect the drop zone through the glass window. (some units just have a screw-in round plug) it should NOT be full of pellets; if it is, run in clean out mode again. Using the stir-rod, scrape under the burn pot to remove ash and crusties.

    Monthly – same as weeky, except I remove the burn pot and stirrer, and empty the ash that has fallen through the holes in the burn pot; the white gasket at the back of the burn pot usually sticks to the pot itself, if it’s damaged replace it with a new one, they are cheep. Before you remove the burn pot, make sure you have a new gasket, just in case; order 3 or 4 at time. To make it easier to install the burn pot, the gasket can be held onto the burn pot with a few dabs of high heat gasket cement. Before installing the burn pot, use a long handled scraper and clean under and above where the burn pot sits. Also clean the chimney with a brush.
    END of the year- empty the bin of all corn and/or wood pellets, then clean everything twice. Once everything is as clean as possible, spray everything inside the unit with rust-proofing spray; I used rust check (red can). If the unit is hard to scrape or get clean, spray it with rust-proofing and let it sit for a week, then clean it again. In the fall at first start-up it will only smoke for about 5 or 10 minutes if there is a lot of oil still on the metal surfaces. Also before firing up the unit for the first time in the fall, check the air intake; mud wasps and mice like to make nests in this area. There is a metal flapper over the air intake on some models, shipped last year; Maxim is recommending that everyone remove this metal flapper as it can stick closed sometimes, which in turn will make it impossible to adjust the settings for your fuel.

    One last note, when the weather is warm, the unit is in idle for long periods of time; this will cause your unit to get dirty very quickly and waste fuel. When it’s above 45-50F during the day, I shut down my unit for the day and let my back-up take over. To properly shut down, do the following:
    1. run on clean-out mode for 10 mins; this will stop burn back.
    2. pull all of the fuel and ash out of the burn pot.
    3. power unit down with the power switch; the cirulating pump to the house will still run. If you don’t want your back-up to heat your unit, unplug the cirulating pump at the unit or shut off the circuit breaker. Note the burn back protection will not work with the breaker turned off, that’s why I run the unit in clean out mode for 10 mins before turning off the unit.

    Settings that I have right now with farely dry corn (80% corn 20% wood pellets are:
    feed:
    low- two green
    Med- one yellow
    High- one yellow
    Air:
    Low-two green
    Med – 1 yellow
    High- 1 yellow

  • Scott BOnneville // November 8, 2009 at 10:06 pm | Reply

    Very nice paul, i appericate the post you amde. it is very helpful. This is my second year burning my 175.
    Thanks Scott

  • Paul // November 10, 2009 at 12:19 pm | Reply

    No problem Scott, tips from anyone is all good. I think everyone agrees that the book/info that comes with the unit is useless; however I beleive the quality and design of this unit is better than most and with a bit of experience you will save a lot of $ in heating costs. I am thinking about adding a second cir pump and heat exchanger to heat my pool, has anyone out their done this; if so what does it cost for the parts etc and how well does it work? Also has anyone out there experimented with burning other fuels like soy beans or wheat?

  • Gordon // December 8, 2009 at 9:01 pm | Reply

    Hi from Dundee, Quebec.
    Paul, I am burning 6 yr old moldy buckwheat in our first year with the 175 , working well desipite a few extra ashes. Had to increase feed rate and decrease air rate to avoid blowing burning grain out of the firepot.
    We have CB bin extension with autofeed auger. The grain is light and dirty, germination almost zero and the birds and mice won’t even eat it. The furnace however seems to be happy and is using lots of it daily with temp. set at 180, making no smoke. We have 14 tonnes in a hopper bin which I have wanted to empty but hated to throw buckwheat away. Heating the house with it makes more sense, so far so good anyway.

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